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MOYINO MIRROR 



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THE NIAGARA, St. LAWRENCE AND SAGUERNAY RIVERS 

EMBRACING THE ENTIRE RANGE 

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UNITED STATES & CANADIAN 



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FROM 



LAKE ERIE TO THE ATLANTIC^ ^ 

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NEW YORK : 
Printed by George F. Bunce, 321 Pearl Street. 



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En TICKED according to Act ol' Conferees, in llic jcaf lbU>, 

BY WILLIAM BURR, 

In t'lc Clerk's office of the District Court of tlic United States in and for the Southern Di:,li id 

of New-York. 






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REMARKS 



In explanation of so vast a range of scenery as is embraced 
in the Mammoth Moving Mirror, the proprietor proffers his 
affirmation in testimony of its being a true and faithful- dehnea- 
tion, every object from the commencement to the termination 
of the pictorial journey being carefully drawn, colored and 
tinted on the spot. Confiding in the appreciation of the impar- 
tial public, he trusts they will not confound this truthful piece 
of artistic mosaic, with the numerous deceptions misnamed 
Panoramas which flood the country, and he feels confident the 
general expectation will be realized. In many instances Pano- 
ramas are the temporary offspring of a few hours copying from 
old prints and drawings, while the objects in them are provoked 
to such desperation, at such gross buffoonery and farcical des- 
tortion, that they appear to break out in open rebellion of all 
pictorial authority. 

The Public may rely on the Accuracy of the views portrayed 
on the Colossal Moving Mirror. They "Were Not taken on a 
Flying Trip in a steamboat, but the proprietor, accompanied by 
the Celebrated Artist, Mr. E. P. BARNES, of New York City, 
Walked the whole Distance from Lake Erie, along 
THE Banks of the Niagara River to Lake Ontario, 
making Full Draioings of the Entire Range of Scenery^ 
many times encountering great peril, being compelled to climb 
aad draw each other up the sides of steep rugged Cliffs, which 



JV. 

in some places in the vicinity of the Great Whirlpool, are 
several liandred feet above the yawning abyss at their base. 
Arrivino^ at Lake Ontario, the proprietor fitted up a vessel, and 
with pilot, crew, and all necessary conveniences for the Artists, 
proceeded to complete the drawings of this stupendous Work of 
Art, which occupied about two-thirds of the year — a second 
vessel having been chartered at Quebec — arriving at the head 
of the Saguenay late in autumn — ending the voyage amid the 
snow and ice which so abound in that region. 

Numerous articles appeared in the Canadian Press during the 
time the proprietor was engaged in making his drawings, one of 
which, from the Quebec Mercury, Jnly 10, 1848, is here copied, 
for the purpose of substantiating the truthfulness as well as im- 
mense labor and cost of procuring the drawings — they alone 
havino; actually cost more than many of the paintings styled 
'• Panoramas," when finished. 

"We are highly gratified in being able to inform the citizens 
of Quebec and the public generally, that Mr. W. Burr, from the 
city of New York, (accompanied by superior artists,) has, after 
a long and dangerous passage of several months through the 
great Western Lakes, Niagara River, liakes Ontario and St. 
Lawrence, arrived in this city. Tliey have made drawings and 
sketches through the whole route, and have chartered a schooner, 
fitted her out with stores and suitable guides, and are continuing 
their way down the St. Lawrence to the Saguenay, will ascend 
that wild, picturesque, and noble river, and from thence continue 
down the St, Lawrence to the Gulf and Atlantic, which will 
complete their whole line of sketches, fornjing one continuous 
view ; the whole distance making nearly 2,U0(> miles. These 
sketches are being made for the purpose of completing a Grand 
Mammoth Painting, which is intended to exceed in extent, style, 
execution, &c., anything of the kind ever exhibited in America. 
This is precisely what is wanted to bring Canadian scenery into 
notice. Tourists are not generally aware of the many scenic 
attractions Canada presents, and, consequently, (we presume) 
visit and revisit hacknied localities faiite le niieitx. AVe wish 
Mr. Burr every success, and en avani courier of his Painting, 
can assure our friends of the States, that a treat is in store for 
them." 



PICTORIAL TOUR. 



Thr scenery selected for illustration on this mirror commences 
on Lake Erie and includes the Niagara river with its stupendous 
cataract, Lake Ontario, the mighty St, Lawrence, and the dark, 
wild, and mysterious Saguenay. In addition to the attractions 
which the gorgeous and romantic scenery on this route possesses 
for the lover of the beautiful and picturesque ; the painting ex- 
hibits nearly the entire boundary line between the United States 
and Canada ; including the entire range of scenery on both 
shores from Lake Erie to the Gulf of the St. Lawrence near the 
Atlantic Ocean, and teems throughout with historical associa- 
tions of the highest interest. The extent of country embraced 
in this painting being so vast, and being truly a terra incogiiita 
to many of our readers, a brief geographical description of the 
great Lakes, forming the source of the St. Lawrence, and a 
slight sketch of the United Provinces of Upper and Lower Can- 
ada, will not be deemed inappropriate, before describing seriatiin 
the subjects as they appear on the Canvas. 

THE LAKES. 

The most striking pecuharity of this part of North America 
is its immense lakes, which, in respect to depth and extent of 
surface have no equal on the face of the earth. Lake Superior 
is the largest of these inland seas and without exception the most 
extensive body of fresh water in the world; being about 1,500 
miles in circumference. In shape it is an irregular crescent, and 
its length is nearly 400 miles. Its surface is elevated 625 feet 
above the level of the sea and its 7;?cau depth is 900 feet. More 
than two hundred and twenty rivers and streams pour into it 
their waters from the surrounding: mountains. 



Lake Huron, the second in magnitude of this great chain of 
lakes, receives the surplus water of Lake Superior by St. Mary's 
Channel. Its circumference is supposed to be nearly 1,000 
miles and the depth is estimated, at from 900 to 1,000 feet. 
Near its north-western point a narrow strait connects it with 
Lake Michigan which is entirely included in the United States' 
Boundary. By the Lake of St. Clair and the Detroit River, 
Lake Huron communicates with Lake Erie whose circumfer- 
ence is about GOO miles. This in a commercial point of view, 
ranks as the most important of the whole chain of lakes ; pos- 
sessing the most extensive channels of inland communication 
in the world. By means of the Erie Canal it connects with the 
Hudson River and the Atlantic Ocean ; and by the Ohio 
Canal, with the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers and the Gulf of 
Mexico. The Welland Canal, also, on the Canadian side forms 
a ship channel ^or vessels to pass through to Lake Ontario, and 
thence by the River St. Lawrence to the Ocean. 

CANADA. 

This Province derives its name from the Iroquois word Kan- 
ata. which sijjnifies a villag^e or collection of huts. It extends from 
Gaspe in the East, to Sandwich at the end of Lake Erie, in the 
West. On the West, its shores are washed by Lake Huron, on 
the South-East by Lakes Erie and Ontario, and by the St. 
Lawrence as far as the boundary of the 45th parallel of latitude. 
From thence the great River St. Lawrence flows through the 
centre of the Province, and contributes as a votive offering to 
the Ocean, half the fresh water on the surface of the Globe ! 

The above brief description, will, it is presumed, be sufficient 
to convey an adequate idea to the untravelled spectator of the 
great inland seas of America which form the source of the 
mighty river whose shores this moving mirror illustrates. We 
beof leave to call the attention of those who arc about to accom- 
pany us through these romantic regions, to some historical and 
statistical particulars connected with the various spots depicted, 
which will add much to the interest of the pictorial journey. 

THE CITY OF BUFFALO 

Is beautifully situated at the eastern end of Lake Erie and 



near the entrance of the Niagara River. The harbor which is 
of immense capacity and thoroughly secure, is formed by a 
creek which crosses the southern portion of the city and is 
separated from the lake by a peninsula. A Breakwater 1,500 
feet in length projects into the lake, at the extremity of which is 
.situated a substantial Lighthouse. 

Sixty years ago the Seneca Nation owned the entire Western 
portion of the State of New York, and the right of pre-emption 
belonged to the State of Massachusetts. Oliver Phelps pur- 
chased this right in 1787, and in June, 1788, he met the Senecas 
at Buffalo and concluded a treaty by which they conveyed to 
him the territory lying between the pre-emption line and the 
Genesee river and a strip of land on the west bank of the river, 
twelve miles wide and about twenty miles in depth from its 
mouth. This acquisition is now known as Phelp's and Gor- 
ham's purchase. At this time we have no records of any white 
man inhabiting this region. La Rochefaucold Liancourt, a 
French nobleman visited this place, then known as Lake Erie 
in 1795, and speaks of an Inn, where he was obliged to sleep 
on the floor in his clothes, and in which there was neither " fur- 
niture, refreshment, rum, candles, or milk." The village rapidly 
rose into consequence a short time after this, when it was sud- 
denly doomed to destruction. On 30th December, 1813, the 
British, to avenge the burning of Kingston crossed the river at 
Black Rock and took, and burnt it, in spite of the gallant resist- 
ance offered by the inhabitants. So complete was the destruc- 
tion that only two dwellings were left unconsumed. The 
rebuilding of the place was not commenced until 1815. The 
population in 1811 was estimated at 500; in February, 1848, 
it was carefully enumerated and found to be over 40,000, so 
that in 1850 it will probably contain 50,000 souls. The act 
incorporating the City of Buffalo was passed April 20th, 1832 ; 
but it may date its great and increasing prosperity from the com- 
pletion of the Erie Canal in 1825. Though but comparatively 
a brief space of time has elapsed since the first settlement took 
place ; its commerce and consequent opulence has increased to 
such a degree that it may be confidently predicted that Buffalo 
is destined to be one of the greatest cities of the Union. She 
well merits the appellation of the " Queen City of Ihe Lakes^ 

Having completed our view of Buffalo, we must take leave of 



8 

the beautiful lake and enter the renowned Niagara river, which 
is the outlet of Lake Erie ; and instead of sailing down the river 
and viewing one shore only, we will land at Fort Erie on the 
Canadian shore and walk along: the banks ihe whole lens'th of 
the river, thirty-three miles, which will bring us to Lake 
Ontario. By adopting this method we gain an important 
point, which enables the spectator to view both the American 
and Canadian shores with the beautiful river flowing between 
them, and all embraced in one view. It is true, the walk will 
be somewhat lengthy, and in many places we shall be compelled 
to encounter severe fatigue and imminent danger. Sometimes 
descending, at other times climbing the rugged sides of cliffs from 
two to five hundred feet above the bed of the river, and clinging 
to shrubs or twigs, and assisting each other from spots where 
the foot will hardly find a resting place on slippery pinnacles 
above. Remember while performins: these feats we are often 
hanging over the wild and roaring rapids. But there is no other 
way of viewing the Niagara river with its picturesque and 
romantic scenery. For the reader must bear in mind that no 
steamboat or other sailing craft, can or dare venture to descend 
the angry stream farther than Chippewa landing, which is 
only twenty-one miles from Buffalo. We shall of course suffer 
the penalties of a hazardous enterprise; and pain, danger and 
fatigue. And even if we had come all the way from Europe to 
view the natural phenomena of this extraordinary river, the 
novelty and grandeur would be sufficient inducement for the 
voyage. 

FORT ERIE— 

Now a mass of ruins— at the foot of the lake and uiimediatcly 
opposite to Buffalo, now comes in full view. It was captured 
by the Americans, July 3d, 1814. A very strong fortification 
belonging to the United States Government, on a rising ground 
about a mile and a half North of the City of Bulfalo, and half 
way to Black Rock, is now before the eye, at which place 
there is an extensive stone pier or dam, aflbrdinaf immense water 
power and at the same time serving as a feeder to the Erie Canal. 
A Steam Fcrry-Boat runs from Black Rock to the village of 
Waterloo on the opposite shore of Canada. The Erie Canal, 
crowded with boats containing the rich produce of the Western 



Prairies, ran parallel with and at a short distance from the banks 
of the Niagara river. It is in view from Buffalo to Towna- 
,wanda, nineteen miles, and forms a pleasing and animated fea- 
ture in the landscape, especially as its surface is six feet higher 
than the river ; caused by the dam at Black Rock. 

THE NIAGARA RIVER, 

Thirty-three miles long, is, at Fort Erie about a mile wide. 
It passes through a country of the most fertile and at the 
same time of the wildest and most romantic character, and 
in its short and rapid course presents the sublime spectacle- 
of all the superabundant waters of the great lakes rushing 
along its narrow channel in one immense bodj^, in its way 
to join the Ocean. The first vessel that ever navigated in- 
land seas of America, was built by La Salle, a Frenchman, in 
1678, at the mouth of a small creek (supposed to be the Cayuga,) 
six miles above the Falls. After many unsuccessful attempts 
the vessel which was of sixty tons burden, ascended the current 
into Lake Erie by the combined aid of tovz-lines and sails on 7th 
August, 1779. They sailed through a lake to which La Salle 
gave the name of St. Clair, and after encountering a violent 
storm in Lake Huron, they passed into Lake Michigan and 
landed at the mouth of Green Bay. He sent back the vessel 
laden with rich furs, valued at 60,000 livres, in charge of the 
pilot and five men ; but they never reached the Niagara, and 
were supposed to have foundered in Lake Huron. The sloop 
Detroit of seventy tons built in 1796, was the first vessel bearing 
the American Flag upon Lake Erie ; and in 1818 the first 
steamboat ''• Walk in the Water" was built at Black Rock ; at 
which time the whole number of vessels on the upper lakes con- 
sisted of thirty sail. 

Descending the Niagara we came to Grand Island, belonging 
to the United States ; a splendid tract of land covered with noble 
forest trees. The white oak is here considered to be of superior 
quality for ship-building. 

CHIPPEWA 

Is twenty miles below Buffalo and two miles above the 
Falls ; it is situated at the mouth of a creek, which is navigable 
about eight miles, to the Welland Canal. This village is noted 

2 



10 

for the sanguinary battle which was fought on 5th July, 1814, 
on the plains a short distance from the landing. The American 
forces were commanded by Major General Brown, the English 
by Major General Riall, who was defeated with considerable 
loss. The night before the battle, the American army crossed 
over the bridge which is shown in the foreground of this jiaint- 
ing, and encamped by tlie old shattered house. Almost the en- 
tire ground where this desperate and bloody battle was fought, 
is depicted on the Canvas. One of the corner posts of this house 
was carried away by a cannon shot fired by the patriots or 
sympathisers while in possession of Navy Island, which is di- 
rectly opposite. We have here, the celebrated Slater House, in 
which a man was killed by a cannon shot fired by the same 
force, whilst lying in bed. Many shots were fired through this 
house and barn, by the soi-dis ant patriots although it was well 
known that a quiet and respectable family occupied it. Also 
the ruins of the English Batteries are seen and the abutments of 
the Bridge which crossed the Chippewa Creek, and which was 
destroyed by the British in 1814 to prevent the Americans from 
crossing. A railroad extends from Chippewa to Q,ueenston, a 
distance of ten miles. Steam-navigation ends at Chippewa. 

NAVY ISLAND, 

The noted fortress of the Patriots in the late insurrection of 
1837-8 lies in the immediate vicinity of Chippewa, and near 
Grand Island, but is inferior to the latter in size and richness of 
soil. Below this and at Schlosser landing the river expands to 
more than two miles in width, but suddenly contracts to less 
than a mile. 

Here the Great Rapids commence ; the current increasing 
from five to twenty miles per hour. Noted as the Canadian boat, 
men are for their intrepidity, they dare not venture farther down. 
Mrs. Jamieson, in her pleasing work on Canada thus graphic- 
ally describes the rapids. " The whole mighty river comes 
rushing, over the brow of a hill, and, as you look up it, seems as 
if coming down to overwhelm you ; then meeting with the rocks 
as it pours down the declivity, it boils and frets like the breakers 
of the ocean. Ilnge moiuids of water, smooth, transparent and 
gleaming like an emerald, rise up and bound over some impedi- 
ment, then break into silver foam, which leaps into the an- in tho 
jno^t graccfiil and fantastic forms." 



_> 



11 

Here the noise of the Falls is distinctly heard, resembling the 
roar of the sea breaking on the shore ; and a column of mist is 
seen hovering over the rapid stream in the distance. Below the 
river bends to the East and is divided by Iris Island, commonly 
called Goat Island, leaving, however, by far the greater body of 
water on the Canadian side. This island which divides, and 
perhaps adds to the beauty and sublimity of the Falls is three 
hundred and thirty yards wide, and is covered with noble forest 
trees and a luxuriant vegetation. 

This island extends to, and forms part of the precipice, thus 
dividing the cataract into two distinct falls. Again, the smaller 
cascade, is divided by Prospect Island ; so that the Cataract of 
Niagara consists of the British, or Horse Shoe Fall, between 
the Canadian shore and Iris Island ; the Central Fall, between 
the American shore and Prospect Island. The width or periph- 
ery of the first fall is about seven hundred yards ; of the second> 
twenty yards ; and of the third, three hundred and thirty yards. 
And the whole extent of the Cataract, including Prospect and 
Iris Island, is rather more than 1,400 yards, from the Canadian 
to the American side. The perpendicular descent is at different 
points, variously estimated from one hundred and fifty-eight to 
one hundred and sixty-four feet. The largest portion of the 
river flows in an almost unbroken sheet, over the Horse Shoe 
Fall. 

Many attempts have been made, in prose and verse, by the 
most talented writers to describe the Falls of Niagara ; but 
none of them have succeeded in expressing that overwhelming 
sense of the presence of Omnipotence and the soul-subduing 
awe which oppresses the mind of the contemplative spectator. 
In fact, words are insufficient to paint this great and wonderful 
work of the Creator of all things : — 

" Here speaks the voice of God ! Let man be dumb, 
Nor with his vain aspirings hither come ; 
That voice impels these hollow-sounding floods. 
And like a presence fills the distant woods. 
These groaning rocks th' Almighty's finger piled, 
For ages here, His painted bow has smiled ; 
Marking the changes and the chance of time^ 
Eternal — beautiful — serene — sublime !" 

The mmds oi all who behold the nnghty Cataract, for the first 



12 

time, are agitated by a variety of conflicting emotions. The 
thundering sound of this immense vohime of water descending 
from a vast height, causes a palpable concussion of the air ; the 
ground trembles beneath the feet, and the scene conjures up 
strange phantoms in the imagination. Each is affected according 
to his natural temperament. The bold and ardent youth, hears in 
the voice of the resistless flood, the sounds of strife and battle — 
the shout of the victors and the groans of the dying. The poet 
beholds visions of unearthly beauty in the wreathing mist, and 
music, sweet as the Harps of those who sing before the throne 
of the Eternal, salute his ear. Bat all confess a feeling of 
awe and veneration, such as is sometimes felt whilst sailing at 
night, upon the trackless ocean. The never-ceasing, endless 
down-pouring of the mighty flood enchains, absorbs all the 
faculties of the mind, and hours pass unheeded, whilst we stand 
ruminating o'er its mysteries. The cloudy column from its 
souuding urn rises by night and day ; the covenant rainbow 
o'er its glowing brow shines ever in the sun ; and when the 
moon's unclouded radiance softens all the scene, still gleams the 
bow of promise there, lifting our thoughts from Earth to Hea- 
ven, and waking memories full of sweet harmonies, as vesper 
hymns from some white convent in the distant hills ! 

In plain matter of fact j-jar^ance — it is almost impossible to 
form a conception of the tremendous volume of water passing 
by the Niagara river over the Falls; yet, below Montreal, the 
stream of the St. Lawrence which is a continuation of Niagara, 
is twice as great as in the neighborhood of the Falls ; and at the 
mouth of the Saguenay, the volume of fresh water which the 
great river of Canada rolls towards the sea is perhaps more than 
equal to the aggregate of all the rivers of the Atlantic coast 
from the Gulf of the St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico ; in- 
cluding even the Mississippi which some writers have gone so 
far as to name the " Father of Rivers." In a word the whole 
region drained by the St. Lawrence, is one of great lakes, num- 
berless fountains, and deep and rapid rivers, iievej- exhausted hy 
the sun. It has been estimated by Dr. Dvvight that 28,350 tons 
of water are precipitated over the Cataract per second. 

^^llere are many objects of interest connected with the Falls, 
which can be merely enumerated in this pamphlet. At the foot 
of the Canadian Fall, a ledge of rock leads into a cavern behind 



13 

the sheet of water, called the " Cavern of the Winds." The 
darkness that surrounds it, and the strong wind blowing the 
spray over the intruders, render this a difficult adventure for 
those not possessed of strong nerves. The whole region about 
the Falls, especially below, is unique and full of points of history 
and wild romance. In the immediate neighborhood, the tourist 
should visit Niagara Village, the " Burning Springs" on the 
Canada side, Lundy's Lane Battle Ground, and the "Bellevue 
Fountain" on the American shore. That parties visiting the 
Falls should have the means of viewing them in every possible 
manner, and to add to the excitement of — this already exciting 
spectacle — a small steamboat named the '"Maid of the Mist" 
carries a living freight of delighted, and, we may add fear- 
stricken passengers, along the base of the American and Cana- 
dian Falls, to be drenched with the spray of the descending 
waters — a shower-bath on a gigantic scale ! Really, as we stand 
on the Canadian shore and look down a chasm of near two hun- 
dred feet and behold this audacious little craft loaded with human 
beings, rolling and pitching in the white-capped surges and close 
to the base of the great Cataract ; at one moment, completely 
enveloped in clouds of mist — the next, breaking into view, sur- 
rounded by playful rainbows — we wonder at the temerity of 
those, who would incur such risk for the mere pleasure of en- 
joying a new sensation. 

On the American side, and just above the Cataract is the 
pretty village of Niagara Falls, which was laid out in 180.5 by 
Judge Porter, who is the principal proprietor. Here the Cata- 
ract House, delightfully situated on the brink of the rapids, offers 
excellent accommodation for travellers whilst sojourning at the 
Falls. On the Canada side, the City of the Falls — and Clifton 
Village, a salubrious and pleasant retreat offer great attractions 
to those in search of health. At the latter place the celebrated 
and elegant " Clifton House," with its triple colonnade looms up 
in the foreground; its numerous guests enjoying a full view of 
the splendid Cataract from the balconies. The road passing in 
front of this hotel leads directly to the battle ground of " Lundy's 
Lane." This battle was one of the most bloody conflicts that oc- 
curred during the last war. The gallant General Scott, who has 
lately gathered fresh laurels in Mexico, participated in the action. 
General Riall of the English army was captured and the posses- 



14 

sion of the battle ground was stubbornly contested until near 
midnight, when 1,700 men being either killed or wounded, the 
conflicting armies, as if by mutual consent ceased the deadly 
strife, and the bloody field remained in the possession of the 
dead and dying. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 

We now approach the whirlpool rapids, across whose 
whirling vortex is thrown a suspension bridge which is now 
in view. Its wires bind the two nations together as it were,_ 
for it is the only means of communication with the opposite 
shore that ingenuity could possibly devise. The cliffs upon 
which the towers rest are two hundred and ten feet above the 
river, and the towers are fifty-two feet above the cliffs. The 
bridge is upheld by nine cables — four on the North and five on 
the South side — the sag of the cables is fifty feet. The bridge 
is only a mile and a half below the Falls and can sustain a 
weight of seventy tons. Mr. Charles Ellet was the engineer 
and is one of the proprietors. When the drawings were made 
only one wire was thrown across the chasm and the proprietor 
of the Mirror crossed in a car accompanied by the engineer. 
Tlie length of the span is 762 feet. The whirlpool is confined 
and pent up between lofty and perpendicular cliffs, the torrent, 
impatient of restraint rushes between them with lightning speed, 
until suddenly arrested in its wild career by a bend in the pre- 
cipitous embankment it is forced completely across the mouth of 
the outlet ; again and again it is drawn from its course and car- 
ried round, until with frightfiil and supernatural efforts, it at 
length bursts away from its prison-house and dashes forth with 
loud and exulting cries to mingle its waters with Lake Ontario. 
Trunks of trees, timbers, and sometimes dead bodies of human 
beings and animals are drawn into its vortex and whirl round 
in the infernal cauldron, in a terrible and mystic dance, until 
chafed, broken up and decomposed by the action of the waters 
they finally disappear. Haifa mile farther down the stream, a 
dark chasm in the precipice forming its banks, meets our views, 
This is known as the " DeviVs Hole:^ A small stream called 
the Bloody Run empties into this fearful gulf. It is memorable 



15 

as the scene of a dreadful tragedy. In 1750 during the war 
with the French, a supply of provisions and ammunition was 
sent from Fort Nias^ara to Fort Schlosser escorted by 100 
British soldiers. As no suspicion was entertained of any hostile 
force being in the vicinity, the men marched listlessly and se- 
curely by the side of the ponderous wagons. On arriving at 
the " Devil's Hole," a tremendous volley was suddenly poured 
into them, and the terrific yells of several hundred Seneca In- 
dians, allies of the French, drowned even the roar of Niagara, 
The knife, rifle and tomahawk did their work on the panic- 
stricken escort before they had time to defend themselves. The 
red warriors finished their fearful work of destruction, by throw- 
ing over the embankment, the horses, wagons and dying soldiers. 
Only two of the British party escaped. The little stream ran 
crimson with human gore and thus obtained its cognomen. 
About two miles below this^ Hewletti's Cellar, a most singular 
natural excavation in the rock, fifteen feet below the top of the 
bank, is even worthy of examination. The country now exhi- 
bits a series of abrupt and elevated ridges, called Queenston 
Heights, the banks on both sides reaching an altitude of seven 
hundred feet, supposed to have been the site of the Falls in 
former ages. This place is also celebrated as being the scene of 
a deadly contest between the American and British forces, Octo- 
ber 13th, 1812. The Americans were commanded by General 
Solomon Van Rensclaer^ and both the troops and their com- 
mander distinguished themselves by their bravery, though finally 
overpowered by numbers. General Brock^ the British Com- 
mander was killed while leading on his men. A monument 
'erected to the memory of this brave soldier, who was respected 
even by his foes, stands on a lofty and commanding situation. 
It is now, however, shattered and defaced. In April, 1840, some 
pitiful scoundrel attempted to destroy it with gunpowder and 
partially succeeded. This monument, and the tree under which 
General Brock, breathed his last, are prominent objects in this 
Picture. At the foot of the height, is the romantic village of 
GluEENSTON, where the Niagara again becomes navigable. On 
the opposite or American shore is Lewiston. The shores now 
suddenly descend to nearly the level of the river, and a verdant 
plain extends to Lake Ontario. Still further down you approach 
the town of Niagara. It contains many fine buildings, and has 



16 

a population of about four thousand persons. Here is a large 
Dockyard, with Marine Railway and Foundry, where have been 
built most of the steamers, now navigating Lake Ontario. It 
was formerly called Newark, was burnt by the American forces 
under General McClure in 1813. — Fort George is seen first 
above the town, dismantled and in ruins. Fort Massasauga 
guards the outlet of the river on the Canadian side and on the 
opposite shore, the Americans have a strong stone fort, called 
Fort Niagara, and between these grim and frowning sentinels, 
we enter Lake Ontario. 

LAKE ONTARIO, 

Called " The Beauii/ul,^^ which is 500 miles round, the 
length measuring three times the breadth, and its surface is 
231 feet above the level of the A.tlantic. The largest ships 
may sail throughout the whole extent. In many parts a line 
of six hundred feei has not reached the bottom ; owing to 
this great depth it never freezes except where the water is shal- 
low, along the shores. We are now upon the sparkling waves 
of this magnificent lake, and steering to the Westward along 
the Canadian shore, we pass Port Dalhousie, and the entrance 
of the Welland Canal. This is a work of great magnitude, con- 
structed in the most substantial manner at the expense of the 
British Government. It is twenty-eight miles long; has twenty- 
two locks of granite ; and ships and propellers of about 500 tons 
burthen, can thus pass and repass from Lake Ontario to Lake 
Erie. — Continuing our voyage Westward, we approach the flour- 
ishing — 

CITY OF HAMILTON 

Which contains about 7,000 inhabitants, standing on Burling- 
ton Bay and situated at the head of the lake. No place in 
Canada is more distinguished for commercial enterprize. In 
the rear of Hamilton is a range of heights, a continuation of the 
ridge from Q,ueenston Heights, and supposed to have been for- 
merly the boundary of Lake Ontario in this direction. From 
this point is seen Diindruin Castle, the seat of Sir Allan McNab, 
well known in Canadian history. — Our course now takes us 
down the lake towards the North East, the shores exhibiting 
scenery of a pleasant and pastoral character ; and the pretty 



17 

THE CITY OF TORONTO 

Meets our view. It is distant 42 miles from Hamilton, contains 
about 2,500 inhabitants and is the third place in point of popu- 
lation in Canada. It is delightfully situated on a bay formed by 
a low sandy peninsular, called Gibraltar Point, and is the only 
natural harbor on the Canadian side of the lake. In 1793, 
General Simcoe caused this harbor to be surveyed, and founded 
the town, then called Little York. Two Indians of the Massa- 
sauga Tribe were at that time in quiet possession, and myriads 
of wild fowl crowded the waters of the bay. In 1813, General 
Pike with a small body of Americans, captured and burnt it ; 
General Pike being killed by the explosion of a magazine. After 
the peace it was rebuilt, and the name was changed to the old 
Indian word Toronto— signifying " tlie plaee of Council^ It 
is a rapidly rising place, thoroughly English in appearance, and 
well paved and lighted ; the houses and public buildings are 
constructed in a substantial and elegant manner. 

The towns of Port Hope, Coburg and other places of less 
note are now shown on the Painting, and Snake Island meets 
the view, situated in mid-channel. As you approach the City 
of Kingston you have a view of the large penitentiary of the 
Province. 

KINGSTON 

Presents a most imposing appearance from the lake ; sur> 
rounded by martello towers and fortifications lately erected at 
immense cost by the British Government. It is pleasantly situ- 
ated at the foot of the lake 180 miles from Hamilton, on the site 
of Fort Frontenac, which was first fortified by the French in 
1672. On a high rocky ridge, forming the East side of Navy 
Bay and extending half a mile into the lake is Fori Henri/, a 
place of great strength, commanding the city, the harbor and all 
the approaches to them both by land and water. The Rideau 
Canal, a most important work, which commences at Bytown on 
the River Ottawa, terminates here, afrer a course of over 100 
miles. Steamboats and other craft were by these means enabled 
to ascend from the St. La\Vrence, avoiding the several rapids, but 
the completion of the several canals around the rapids of the St. 
Lawrence, has deprived the Rideau of much of its former 
business. 

3 



13 

Kingston was chartered as a city in 1840 and now contains 
over 12,000 inhabitants. It possesses, besides several fine pubUc 
buildings a splendid I'own Hall and Market— d^nA next to 
Q,uebec and Halifax is considered the strongest military position 
in North America. 

Leaving Kingston we now enter upon the great 

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 

And here, let the reader bear in mind that it derives its source 
from the Rocky Mountains, where it is known as the River St. 
Louis ; then expanding successively into the immense fresh 
water seas of Superior, Huron, Michigan, St. Clair, Erie 
and Ontario — below Kingston it reafains its characteristic fea- 
ture of a river and continues in an uninterrupted course to the 
Atlantic Ocean. — Floating along the stream, which is here from 
twelve to fifteen miles wide, we find ourselves surrounded by 
the 

THOUSAND ISLANDS. 

The largest are from eight to twelve miles in length and three 
to five miles in breadth ; the smallest, not an acre in extent. — 
Though this extensive group bears the name of the Thousand 
Isles, there are more than 1,500 of them, forming a perpetual 
succession of the most romantically beautiful and picturesque 
objects that can be imagined. The traveller is spell bound 
whilst viewing with breathless delight these matchless combina- 
tions of rock, wood and water : — 

•'Hail Lake of Thousand Isles! 
Which clustered lie within the circling arms, 
Their flower-strewn shores, kissed by the silver tide, 
As fair art thou as aught 
That ever in the lap of nature lay." 

Warburton, in his Hochelaga thus describes his impressions 
v/hilst gazing on this fairy scene : — 

" Now wo arc among the mazes of the ' Thousand Islands,' and pass 
so close to some of them that we can pull tlic leaves from the bending 
boughs of the trees, as the merciless wheels of the steamer dash to atoms 
their beautiful reflection in the mirror of the calm blue water. The eye 
does not weary to see, but the hand aches, in ever writing the one word — 
beauty, wherever you steer over this great river — beauty, beauty still." 



19 

As we emerge from this scene of enchantment, the river contracts 
to about two miles iu width. The scenery is constantly changing 
— at one moment, white cultivated fields and rural settlements 
appear — at the next, features of bold outline impart a grandeur and 
variety to the river and its shores, possessed by no other stream, 
in an equal degree. Descending, the small village of Ganoiuio- 
qui meets our view, and WeWs Island belonging to the United 
States is also passed. — In 183S this island was the scene of a 
daring act of piracy. Tiie British steamer " Sir Robert PeeF 
whilst stopping to wood, was boarded at midnight by a band of 
armed men, who after ordering the captain, crew and passengers 
ashore, robbed the vessel of everything valuable and set her on 
fire. The celebrated Bill Johnson was suspected to be the 
leader of the gang. Leaving this scene of outrage we arrive 
at Brockville, one of the prettiest towns in Canada. The 
houses are built with considerable taste, and the scenery they 
command is exquisite. Below, the small village o( Maitland is 
seen, and we arrive at Prescott, which is a town of some im- 
portance possessing a population of some 4,000 inhabitants. — 
Fort Wellington, strongly garrisoned, commands the river. 
Windmill Point, one mile below Prescott is a spot made me- 
morable during the late rebellion. In November, 1838, a body 
of American sympathizers under the command of a Pole named 
Van Schultz landed at this spot to aid the patriots. They took 
possession of the Windmill and some stona houses, and defended 
themselves fighting desperately for some time ; but the British 
forces bringing some cannon to bear upon them, rendered their 
position untenable, and the survivors were compelled to surren- 
der. The leaders suffered death on the gallows as pirates ; the 
others were sentenced to transportation for life to Van Dieman's 
Land, but have since been pardoned by Q,ueen Victoria. 
The Windmill and roofless houses shattered by the artillery, 
give fearful evidence to the spectator of the murderous conflict 
which there took place. Immediately opposite to Prescott and 
connected with it by a ferry, is Ogdensburgh, (which with 
Prescott. the Windmill, &,c. all come in full view, on this 
great painting,) situated at the mouth of the Oswegatchie 
river ; and as it appears to be a bustling go-ahead town, we will 
request the reader to land with us and take a bird's-eye view of the 
whole city. Prescott, opposite the majestic river, covered with 



20 

steamers and shipping gliding between them. The rising sun 
lights np the various streets, and the snug dwellings with hand- 
some flower-gardens attached. Even at this early hour the 
mills and factories appear to be in full operation ; the venders of 
milk are serving their customers ; the population are all astir, 
and the whole place has the appearance of thriving industry and 
prosperity, which stamps it as belonging to Uncle Sam's domi- 
nions. — Once more we are upon the bosom of the noble river; 
and confiding in the skill of an experienced pilot, we fearlessly 
brave the "Gallop Rapids," and hurried through the plunging, 
foaming billows, find ourselves again in smooth water. A suc- 
cession of these dangerous rapids extend at intervals, from this 
point to a little a!x>ve Montreal ; all of thorn are, however, navi- 
gable by steamers descending, but never ascending ; they pass- 
ing in their upward course through a series of Canals, which 
have been constructed all along the shores of the river in order 
Jo avoid these rapids. Steam-propellors, and other craft, freighted 
with the produce of the Far West are enabled to make their 
transit by the channels from Lake Superior to the St. Lawrence, 
and from thence across the Atlantic to Europe. The immense 
rafts of timber which float down this great river and through the 
surging rapids on their way to Montreal and Quebec are objects 
of wonder and admiration to all strangers. Whilst drifting 
down some uninterrupted reach, the rafts attached to each other 
by brackets operating on the principle of a swivel, forming one 
immense raft, many of them a mile in length. On arriving at 
the commencement of the rapids, the rafts dissolve partnership, 
and the hardy lumberers ply their long sweeps with desperate 
energy until the danger is passed. Yet it often happens that in 
spite of their skilly the ponderous mass of timber is dashed with 
resistless force against the rocks, bidden by the foam of the boil- 
ing surges, or islands that intersect the furious current of the 
liver. Many poor fellows meet a watery grave, whilst the logs 
of timber and sawn lumber on which such labor has been ex- 
pended liecome the booty of river pirates, always on the alert 
for such disasters. A great variety of these rafts in different si- 
tuations are faithfully portrayed on the painting which this book 
iis intended to accompany. As I have occasionally mentioned 
paiticiilar objects, as appearing on the painting, it may be proper 
to state that the whde lange of scenery, including almost every 



21 

object and place however minnte on both shores from Lake Erie 
to the Atlantic Ocean, are depicted with the same care and trtith- 
fuiness as those to which I make particular allusion. 

The St. Lawrence is undoubtedly the natural channel and 
outlet for the produce of all the States bordering on the great 
Western Lakes. American enterprize has opened an artificial 
channel, by the Erie Canal, but natural advantages are in favor 
of the St. Lawrence. In twenty years, possibly in five, there 
will be a line of packets plying between Chicago and Liverpool 
completely outflanking New York. — All that is necessary to se- 
cure this, is the opening the navigation of the iSt. Laivrence to 
American vessels. The country is now of a quietly undulating 
character ; cheerful villages and green clearings diversify the 
scenery. Gliding by Matilda's Landing, one of the entrances 
of the St. Lawrence Canal, we pass successively the villages of 
East and West Williamsburg, and then for several miles are 
carried through the dangerous rapids of the Long Sault. 
Cornwall, a town of some importance containing about 2,000 
inhabitants and situated at the lower end of the St, Lawrence 
Canal is seen, and four miles below on the American side of the 
river we come to the Indian village of St. Regis, which is on 
the line of 45 degrees North latitude. Part of this village is in 
Canada, and part in the United States ; the dividing line beino- 
accurately drawn on the foreground of the Panorama ; the River 
St. Lawrence, below this point being entirely in Canada. 
Here, on a small portion of the hunting grounds of their once 
powerful nation, is to be found a settlement of the Iroquois. 
Many of the men obtain a precarious subsistence by hunting; 
the women make mitts, baskets and mocassins. The Indian 
boys are expert swimmers, and during the summer season, visit- 
ers often put their skill to the test by throwing a piece of money 
into the river from the steamboat landing, when a half a dozen 
of the little coppjr-colored urchins will dive in after it, generally 
succeeding in catching it before it reaches the bottom, although 
sometimes compelled to dive to the depth of ten to twenty feet. 
Passing the light-house we enter an expansion of the river 30 
miles in length and seven in breadth, called Lake St. Francis. 
On the shore may be observed a large cairn, or pile of stones, 
raised by the loyal Glengarry Highlanders in honor of Sir John 
Colborne, formerly Governor General of Canada. TiANCASTER, 



22 

another convenient steamboat landing, is now before us/ It is 
connected by a road with the celebrated Caledonia Springs, 
thirty miles distant. The dividing line of the two Provinces 
crossed, we now arrive at the village of Coteau dii Lac^ in 
Lower Canada^ or Canada East as it is generally designated 
by the Canadians. A few miles further the village of the Cedars 
is past, and here we behold the mighty St. Lawrence pent into 
several narrow channels, among wooded islands, and rushing 
fiercely along over its rocky bed. — Nothing can exceed the ex- 
citing spectacle of the Cedar Rapids with its frantic billows 
capped with snowy plumes. The islands which obstruct the 
current of the river, are perfect gems of beauty. Nature in one 
of her loveliest freaks, has sprinkled them with flowers, wreathed 
them with vines, and the flowering shrubs and trees drop their 
leaves, and dip their branches and buds in the angry tide, as if 
to deprecate its wrath. Passengers on the deck of the passing 
steamer may often be seen plucking them from the branches. — 
Steamboats pass down these rapids, though not without risk as 
may be imagined, when the rapid current sweeps them close to 
rocks and islands, which if touched, would insure destruction. 
Latterly, however, the route has baen rendered more safe by the 
discovery of a channel, which it is said was used long ago by 
the French voyageurs. — In the Cedar and Cascade Rapids, 
there is a difference of sixty feet in the elevation in about sixteen 
miles, and the immense body of water rushes down at the rate 
of, from twenty to thirty miles per hour. To ascend against 
this current would be impossible, therefore vessels of every de- 
scription pass through the Beauharnois Coiial, which com- 
mences at the village of that name, sixteen miles below. In the 
year 1759, when General Amherst entered Canada, his ad- 
vanced guard, of about 300 men embarked above the Cedars ; 
the intention was to float down and take up a position on the 
opposite side of the river. Perhaps these dangerous channels 
were but little known, or that the pilot played them false — none 
survived as accusers; the next day the lifeless bodies of the 
British soldiers, clothed in the well known red, floating past 
Montreal gave the first notice of invasion. Leaving behind us 
the Cascade Rapids, and passing the light-house, we find our- 
selves upon the bosom of the calm and glassy Lake St. Louis, 
another expansion of the River St. Lawrence two and a half 



23 

miles wide at this point. Here the St. Lawrence receives an 
important accession, by the influx of one branch of the great 
River Uttawas or Ottawa, from the North West. Its im- 
mense volume of water, (which is probably fully equal to the 
Ohio River,) is discharged into the St. Lawrence through three 
separate and distinct channels, the last of which is about 
twenty miles below Montreal, its yellow clay-colored water, 
forming a striking contrast where it mingles with the pure blue 
waters of the St. Lawrence. It is said to have its source near 
the Rocky Mountains, and to travel a distance of two thousand 
Jive hundred miles ; but it has never been fully explored. The 
scenery along the entire length, owing to the numerous falls and 
cascades, is extremely romantic. A iew^ miles above tliis em- 
bouchure of the Ottawa is situated the village of St. Ann, It 
owes its existence and support to the contributions of the Cana- 
dian voyageurs, who never omit to pay their offerings at the 
shrine of >S'^. Anne, their tutelar Saint, before engaging in any 
enterprize. — This gave rise to the Canadian Boat Song of the 
Poet, Moore : — 

" Faintly as tolls the evening chime, 
Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time; 
Soon as the woods on shore look dim, 
We'll sing at St. Ann's our parting hymn ; 
Row, brothers, row, the stream runs fast, 
The Rapids are near and the daylight's passed," &c. &c. 

Many who never have seen and never will see the " Uttawas' 
tide" have sung in cadence to its murmuring tide, till it has 
become almost a household word. Neither the Hudson, Missis- 
sippi or Ohio, can boast of such charming scenery as is seen on 
the Ottawa.— Continuing down the lake we arrive at the Iro- 
quois settlement of Caughnawaga or the " Village of the 
JRapids,'" situated on the Southern shore ten miles from Mont- 
veal. Their number is about 1,200, they have a very respecta- 
ble church and comfortable houses, they subsist principally in 
the summer by navigating boats and rafts down the Lachine 
Rapids ; and in winter by the manufacture and sale of snow- 
shoes, mocassins, &c. During the troubles of 1838, these In- 
dians rendered an essential service to the government. On Sun- 
day, 4th day of November, a body of armed insurgents had con- 



24 

cealed themselves in the woods near the village with the proba- 
ble intention of committing some depredation during the night. 
These were discovered by some Indian children who were 
searching for berries and who carried the news to the church, 
where the warriors were attending divine service. The congre- 
gation turned out en masse and raising the warwhoop, rushed 
upon the insurgents, disarmed them and took them prisoners. 
They then carried them down to Montreal and delivered them 
up to the authorities. Their loyal conduct has been rewarded 
by special marks of favor from Her Majesty's Government. On 
the opposite side of the river is the little village of Lachine — 
how it came to be thus named is worth relating. — At the time 
Canada was discovered, the great object of adventure was to find 
a North West passage to India and China. Champlain, who in 
his second voyage to this country, made a settlement at Mont- 
real, was so convinced that a passage to the Pacific Ocean could 
be made by the way of the St. Lawrence and the great Lakes, 
that he named the river above the rapids Lachine, (China,) 
meaning that it was the road to China, which name it bears to 
this day. 

After leaving Lachine the St. Lawrence contracts and boils 
up and foams in a most terrific manner amongst rocks and small 
islands, for nine miles, forming the Rapids of Lachine or 
Sault St. Louis. The current is forced througli a variety of 
narrow channels in many places at the rate of thirty miles per 
hour, and the roaring of the maddened waters may be heard for 
several miles. These are the most dangerous rapids along the 
course of the St. Lawrence; vessels descend them although' 
they often suffer for their temerity; but it is impracticable to 
ascend except' by passing through the fine ship canal which 
extends from Montreal to the village of Lachine. The noble 
river now assumes its usual dignified appearance, placidly ex- 
panding to more than two miles in width and leaving the de- 
lightful village of Laprairie on the right hand (where com- 
mences the St. John railroad) it presents us with a most imposing 
and magnificent view of 

MONTREAL, the CAPITAL CITY op UNITED CANADA. 

In mid-channel, and one mile from the city, St. Helen's 
Island clothed with verdure and interspersed with fine trees 



25 

amidst which field-works and fortifications peep out — forms the 
foreground. Facing us to the Westward we behold a spectacle 
unequalled in North America — a City of Granite, with such 
an appearance of solidity that it, would seem as if intended to 
last for ages. A massive stone quay extends along the whole 
river front, forming a delightful promenade in summer. The 
margin is lined with noble stone-warehouses resembling a row 
of fortifications ; fronting the St. Lawrence is the Bonsecoiirs 
Market an imposing structure exceeding many royal palaces in 
architectural embellishments. The French Cathedral of Notre 
Dayne is a magnificent pile of building — without exception the 
largest religious editice in America. The length from East to 
"West is 255 feet 6 inches — the breadth 134 leet, and the two 
towers on the principal or West front are each 220 feet high. It 
posseses the largest bell in the Western Hemisphere weighing 
fifteen tons. — It contains 1,244 pews— and in this immense tem- 
ple 10,000 people can kneel in prayer. Amongst many other 
fine Churches of which this city can boast, St. Patrick's Catho- 
lic Church is capable of containing 7,000 persons. The public 
buildings are numerous and imposing. They include the Par- 
liament House, Government House, The Hotel Dieu, two large 
Nunneries, the Seminary of St. Sulpice, some fine banks, an 
elegant and convenient Theatre and Barracks for 2,000 men ; 
while in the rear of the city, Mont Royal, studded with hand- 
some villas looms up majestically to the height of six hundred 
feet, and forms the back-ground of the picture. During the 
Canadian riots, on the night of the 25th of April, 1849, the 
House of Assembly, with all the archives and records of the 
colonies, for upwards of a century, were destroyed by fire. The 
books were valued at .£100,000; not eighty dollars worth of 
property was saved. The loss is irreparable. The Queen's , 
picture, which was saved from the burning buildings, was de- 
stroyed in the streets. Montreal is well lighted with gas, 
has an eflicient police, and is considered the cleanest city 
'■ in Her Majesty's Dominions," and is without exception 
the cleanest city in America. Here ladies are as often seen 
walking in the middle of the street as on the side-walk and 
that too without soiling a kid slipper. Every thing about the 
city speaks of its French origin, and so tenacious have been the 
French of their nationalities that a century of English rule has 
altered slightly their habits or manners. All the public docu- 

4 



2G 

ments are still printed in French as well as English. The new 
streets are spacious containing many elegant stores. The 
Hotels are numerous ; Donnegana's, a splendid house equalling 
in size the famous Astor House of New York has lately been 
destroyed by fire ; it was unsurpassed in the elegance of its 
accommodations. In the year 1809 the inhabitants erected by 
subscription, a monument to Lord Nelsoji the Hero of Trafal 
gar. It consists of a stone column surmounted by a fine statue 
of the naval hero ; it fronts the principal street of which it is an 
ornament. 

On the second visit of Jacques Cartier to this country, durmg 
the reign of Francis I. of France, he heard that there was a 
large settlement far up the great river called Hochelaga, and he 
determined to sail in quest of it. After a perilous voyage he 
discovered a fortified town, belonging to the Huron tribe, dwell- 
ing among rich corn-fields on a beautiful island, and under the 
shade of a mountain named Mont Royal, and which time has 
changed to Montreal. Sixty -eight years afterwards, the Sieur 
Demonts, speaking of Canada, reported that " the Village of 
Hochelaga was now no more." 

But in the year 1640, several persons full of religious zeal, 
formed themselves into a society for the purpose of colonizing 
the Island of Mont Royal. The king of France ceded to this 
association the whole island, and Monsieur Maisonneuve was 
appointed Governor, 17th June, 1642. The spot selected for 
the city was consecrated by the Superior of the Jesuits, the 
" Queen of Angels" was supplicated to take it under her protec 
tion and it was named after her, "LaVille Marie." In 1644 
the whole of this beautiful domain, which on account of its fer- 
tility is called the Garden of Canada, became the property of the 
St. Sulpicians of Paris, and was by them afterwards conveyed 
to the Seminary of the same Order at Montreal, in whose posses- 
sion it now remains. At the conquest of Canada by Great Brit- 
ain in 1760, the property and revenues of the Seignories, and 
all estates belonging to existing religious institutions were guar- 
anteed to the possessors. 

The terms in favor of the French residents were faithfully 
and even liberally fulfilled by the British government. Civil 
and religious liberty was granted to the Canadians and great for- 
bearance and generosity were displayed by the captors to the 
conquered. The Canadians were so gratified with the change 



27 

which they experienced in coming^ under the British rule, that 
when George II. died in 1760, all the French in Canada of every 
distinction went into mourning. Within the last half century 
many capitalists from England and Scotland have settled at 
Montreal and have infused a vigor and energy into it which is 
perceptible in its extended commerce and in the improvements 
which are daily taking place. The completion of the line of 
canals opening to Montreal and the trade of the Western country, 
has also added to its wealth and importance. 

Leaving Montreal on our passage to Quebec^ we have a fine 
view on the right hand of St. Helenas Island ; its pleasant green 
slopes and shady glens, affording delightful situations for pic-nic 
and rural parties, of which the citizens of Montreal frequently 
avail themselves in the summer. On our left, we are passing a 
quarter of the city, called the Quebec iSuburbs. It contains 
several buildings of note ; the Military Hospital, the New Jail, 
and Molson^s Brewery, an immense range of stone buildings, 
almost equal in extent to some of the Porter Breweries of Lon- 
don. A little below this a ferry connects with the Village of 
Longueil on the opposite shore, from whence there is a fine 
plank-road extending about twenty-three miles to Chamhly. 
On this road two miles from the village, the first blood was shed 
during the rebellion of 1837. A peace officer, having two pris- 
oners in custody and accompanied by a party of the Royal Mon- 
treal Cavalry, just previously organized, were returning to Mon- 
treal, when they were intercepted by a large body of armed peas- 
antry, who fired upon them from a large barn and from behind 
the fences which bordered the road. Several of the cavalry 
were wounded and their prisoners rescued. We now descend 
the Raj)ids of St. Mary and on the North shore, pass in suc- 
cession the villages of Longueil Point and Point aux Trembles 
and on the South shore the Village of Boucherville. Another 
branch of the Ottawa now joins the St. Lawrence, still increas- 
ing the already enormous volume of water. Village after vil- 
lage, is now passed, each, with its picturesque church ; indeed 
the whole bank of the river hence to Quebec and 200 miles be- 
low that city, appears to be one continuous \7illage, being thickly 
dotted with the white cottages, churches and long white barns 
of the simple habitans. The French Canadian remains to this 
day, in all his customs as were his forefathers a century back ; 
he can recognize no improvement either in the tilling of his land 



28 

or his household habits. On his saint's day or the Sabbath, he 
repairs to his village church clothed in the same style as his an- 
cestors. During the summer he cultivates his land and when 
tlie snows of winter cover the earth, he harnesses his little pon- 
ies and accompanied by his happy family, he visits his neighbors 
and seated round their large square stoves, made in the style of 
a past century, he passes his long winter evenings in happiness 
and amuses himself with tales of " ha Belle FranceP Kind, 
hospitable, contented, he asks for no change in his condition, but 
only desires to be allowed to do as his fathers did before him. 
He dies— and his children divide his land, each taking a "?zia- 
Zei" and live over the same old scenes again. There dwells not 
on the face of the earth a more happy, contented and honest 
people. Yareiuies, on the South bank of the St. Lawrence is a 
delightful place, famous for the mineral springs in its vicinity. 
In the distance the holy mountain, its summit crowned with 
the Pilgrim's Cross, which may be seen for many miles, imparts 
a grandeur to the scene. The Cross was erected by the Bishop 
of Nancy ; it is made of timber 100 feet high and covered with 
tin which in the dry atmosphere of this country always retains 
its brightness, and many a pious habitan devoutly crosses him- 
self, when he beholds this emblem of his faith shining like burn- 
ished gold in the rays of the setting sun. Fifteen miles further 
on the same side, the St. Lawrence receives the Nichelieu river 
which issues from Lake Champlain and flows for about seventy 
miles through a fertile country. Flourishing settlements, neat 
and populous villages and handsome churches adorn its banks 
nearly the whole length. Near its junction with the St. Law- 
rence is the pretty village of William Henry or Sorel, called so 
on account of its being built on the site of old Fort Williain 
Henry. This is a military station, the commander-in-chief gen- 
erally residing here. It is rapidly increasing in trade and im- 
portance and numbers about 3,000 inhabitants, principally Brit- 
ish. The American army occupied the old fort in 1776 on their 
retreat from Quebec, after the death of Montgomery. Contin- 
uing through a cluster of wooded islands we enter Lake St. 
Peter, which is merely another expansion of the mighty river to 
about 15 miles in width and 25 in length. The water is shal- 
low and of great variety of tints. It is surrounded by a fine 
agricultural country, while the scenery along the banks is rather 
flat and monotonous. Two substantial light-ships mark th« 



29 

ship-channel which is very intricate. The English government 
have expended nearly a million of dollars for deepeniiio- and 
improving t!ie channel, rendering navigation for ships of a large 
class, safe and easy to Montreal, a distance of 530 miles from 
the Atlantic Ocean. At the termination of the lake the river again 
rapidly contracts to its nsnal width, resumes its dignified deport- 
ment and with constantly increasing volume continues on its 
pilgrnnage to the ocean. Here exactly half way between Mont- 
real and Q,nebec, we approach the old town of Three Rivers 
— old for the Western world — for it was settled by the French 
in 1618. It is pleasantly situated on the Western bank of the 
river at its confluence with the river St. Maurice which enters 
the St. Lawrence by three separate channels. Two islands, 
connected by substantial bridges, at the embouchere of the Si. 
Maurice give it the appearance of three distinct rivers, and to 
this the town owes its name. It is famous for its iron forges, 
established as long ago as 1737. Many Wealthy French famil- 
ies reside here. The River iSt. Maurice is nearly 150 miles in 
length and contributes a supply of water to the /St. Lawrence 
nearly equal in volume to that of the Hudson to the Atlantic. 
Opposite this, enters the river Becancotir. After passing the 
mouths of the >Si. Maurice, the shores gradually rise, assuming 
a loftier and more romantic character. Churches generally with 
two spires — villages and white cottages are profusely scattered 
along the shore. The population is now very dense on both 
sides of the river. We now see in succession the Batiscan and 
St. Anne's rivers— the former a stream of magnitude entering 
by two channels. Scenery of the most picturesque and varied 
description continually greets the eye — the view bounded by 
remote and lofty mountains, from amongst which the rapid river 
Jacques Cartier rushes impetuously into the St. Lawrence. 
The Richelieu Rapids are next passed — they extend some ten 
miles and are very shallow and in many places the rocks are 
visible threatening shipwreck to the unwary mariner. 

The government have, however, erected beacons in the most 
dangerous places. On the North shore we now pass Cape Sante 
and directly opposite a small settlement called St. Trois. The 
banks of the river have now almost a perpendicular elevation of 
from 100 to 300 feet and from thence extending back in a beauti- 
ful level plain covered with the richest verdure. Cape Rouge 
appears on the left, and here for the first time we catch a view 



30 

of the Citadel of Quebec connected with so much historical 
remiiiiscence. On the South side the Chaudiere River rushes 
over a beautiful rapid, four nailes from its mouth, dashing and 
foaming amidst the wildest wood-crowned cliffs, and charming 
sequestered valleys. Two miles above Quebec, we reach 
Wolf's Cove and behold with breathless interest the spot where 
after so many risks and difficulties, he landed his gallant army 
and won a glorious grave in the arms of victory. The track by 
which he ascended the heights to the Plains of Abraham meets 
our anxious gaze, and not faf from the inar^tello tower that 
stands before us, is a monument erected by a grateful nation, on 
the very spot where fell the lamented hero in his hour of tri- 
umph. From Quebec to the opposite shore is about three quar- 
ters of a mile, but the basin just below is five times as wide and 
large and deep enough to float England's navy. 

We now glide by many deep coves filled with timber, and 
destined soon to be conveyed to Europe, by the vessels which 
lie at anchor below. At the foot of the rock is the suburbs of 
St. Roch, and is the commencement of the lower town. It is 
built on land which has been saved from the water by the erec- 
tion of docks. A little further down the world-renowned City 
AND Fortress op (Quebec stands in all its grandeur before 
you, with the standard of England floating from its citadel. 

Standing on the heights of Cape Diajnond and gazing across 

the deep channel of the lordly St. Lawrence, which is now about 

1,400 yaids wide, (but appears to be not half that distance in the 

clear bright atmosphere) the whole gorgeous scene lies spread 

before us. 

We cannot resist giving the following lucid description of the 

CITY OF QUEBEC, 

As furnished by Mr. Buckingham in his interesting work on 
Canada. — " The situation of Quebec, is highly advantageous, in a 
commercial as well as a military point of view, and its appearance 
is very imposing from whatever quarter it is first approached, 
though at a distance of 350 miles up from the Sea, the magnifi- 
cent river on which it is seated, is 3 miles in breadth a little below 
the town, and narrows into about a mile in breadth immediately 
abreast of the Citadel ; having in both these parts, sufficient depth 
of water for the largest ships in the world — a rise and fall of 20 



31 

feet in its tides — and space enough in its capacious basin, between 
Oa-pe Diamo?id on the one hand, and the Isle of Orleans on the 
other, to afford room and anchorage for a thousand sail of vessels 
at a time, sheltered from all winds, and perfectly secure ! The 
River St. Charles, has its junction with the St. Lawrence, a little 
to the North of the promontory of Cape Diamond, and affords a 
favorable spot for ship building and repairs, as well as an excellent 
winter harbour for ships lying up dismantled. 

QUEBEC, 

Lies at the junction of the Si. Charles, with the St. Lawrence, 
the ground plan of which is almost precisely the same as New- 
York; lying as it does at the junction of the East and Hudson 
Rivers. 

THE CITADEL OF QUEBEC 

Oocupies the highest point of Cape Diamond, being elevated 
350 feet above the river, and presenting almost perpendicular 
cliffs towards the water. 

The city is built from the waters' edge, along the foot of these 
cliffs, round the point of the promontory, and ascending upwards 
from thence to the very borders of the citadel itself. It is divided 
into the Lower and Upper town, the former including all that is 
below the ramparts, or fortified lines, the latter comprehending all 
that is above or within that barrier. 

Besides these there is a large suburb, separated from Quebec 
proper, called the Suburb of St. Roch, on the right bank of the 
river St. Charles, the only portion of the whole that is built on 
level ground. This portion of Quebec is building up rapidly 
and presents a flourishing appearance. Several of the public 
buildings are so prominendy placed, and advantageously seen, 
that they relieve in some degree, the general monotony of the 
mass of ordinary houses, and are ornamental to the town ; while 
the spires of the churches, the dome of the Parliament House, and 
other elevated points rising from the general surface, with their 
tinned roofs glittering in the sun, give a liveliness and variety to 
the picture presented by the city from every point of view, which 
no other place in America, and indeed few places on the globe 
presents. 



S2 

Quebec possesses one of the most beautiful promenades imagi- 
nable ; it occupies the site of the Castle of St. Louis of which 
Chami)lain laid the foundation on 6th May, 1624. The French 
and English Governors resided in this castle till 1834, when on 
the 23d January it was entirely destroyed by fire. It has never 
been rebuilt ; but Lord Durhcwi had the site cleared of the ruins, 
and the whole are floored with wood and converted into a beauti- 
ful platform, commanding one of the most magnificent panoramic 
views that can be imagined. Mr. Buckingham remarks that while 
he was there, there were not less than 300 sail of merchant ships 
anchored in the stream, 163 of which arrived in two successive 
davs, and at least 100 more lay along the side of the wharves and 
quays. " As the weather was beautifully fine, and the country 
still verdant all around, the sight of so many ships seen from a 
height of 200 feet above the river, with the fine extent of country 
opposite, thickly dotted with villages and hamlets of the purest 
white, and the grandeur of the mountains in the distance fading 
away into a fainter and fainter blue, till scarcely distinguishable 
from the azure sky of the far horizon, was beautiful and magnifi- 
cent beyond expression." The line of fortifications enclosing the 
upper town and citadel is about 3 miles in extent. All communi- 
cation with the upper town is through massive gates protected by 
heavy cannon. The Western part of the city being deficient in 
natural strength so ftdly developed in the rest of the line, has 
been covered by a combination of regular works, consisting of 
ramparts, bastion, ditch and glacis. In order to strengthen the de- 
fences of the city on the West, four Martello towers were erected 
on the plains of Abraham. They extend from the St. Lawrence 
to the Coteau St. Genevieve at irregular distances from each other 
of from 5 to 600 yards and about 3f of a mile from the city. 

Their construction is such that they could be readily demo- 
lished by the guns from the walls, should such a step be rendered 
necessary by their falling into the hands of an enemy, but on the 
opposite side their construction is exceedingly solid and the plat- 
form on the top is furnished with guns of a heavy calibre. The 
walk around the ramparts is the most delightful that can be imagi- 
ned ; look out in what direction you please, the eye commands a 
prospect of fifty miles in extent, replete with all the elements which 
enter into the formation of a perfect landscape. The author of 



33 

Hochelaga thus glowingly describes the panoramic view from ihi 
citadel — "Take mountain and plain, sinuous, river, and broad tran- 
quil waters, stately ship and tiny boat, gentle hill and shady 
valley, bold headland and rich fruitful fields, frowning batdenients 
and cheerful villa, glittering dome and rural spire, flowery garden 
and sombre forest — 'group them all into the choicest picture of 
ideal beauty your fancy can create ; arch it over with a cloudless 
sky, light it up with a radiant sun, and lest the scene should be too 
dazzling, hang a veil of light haze over all, to soften the light and 
perfect the repose — you will then have seen Quebec on this Sep^ 
tember morning." 

How changed the scene ! Winter has cast its frigid mantle 
over the gorgeous landscape. The St. Lawrence is now burdened 
with immense masses of floating ice, exhibiting the most varied and 
fantastic appearance through which the dark leaden colored waters 
are occasionally seen. The hardy habitans keep up a communica- 
tion with the opposite shore and carry passengers and light goods 
in their canoes ; landing on the intervening islands of ice, drag- 
ging their canoes across and launching them on the other side. 
Owing to the immense volume of water and the strength of the 
current, the St. Lawrence is seldom bound in icy fetters. Howe* 
ver it so happens that about every five years on an average, the ice 
islands get jammed up together sometimes thrown up into heaps 
or mounds of great height opposite the city, and the frost binding 
them, forms a po7it or bridge, on some very severe night just at the 
turn of the tide. Winter suddenly casts its manacles over the 
mighty stream and an immense sheet of glare ice extending for 
many miles connects Quebec with the opposite shore. When this 
takes place, it is hailed with almost frantic delight by the whole 
population. The glassy surface of the river is soon covered with 
gay parties in sledges and carioles, whisked along at fearful speed 
by the mettlesome little horses. People clad in fur or blanket 
coats are seen in all directions sleighing, skating and running. 
But the feature in the picture most novel and interesting to the 
stranger is the ice boats. A boat is fixed upon a triangular frame, 
with runners like those of skates, at each corner ; it is propelled 
by sails sometimes at the rate of 20 knots an hour ; a pole with a 
spike at the end acting as a rudder. Many of these crafts, filled 
with a jovial crew of both sexes, are saihng on the wind, or tacking 

5 



34 

with the greatest facility, and when viewed from the high banks, im- 
impart an additional vivacity to the scene. The costume of the 
peasantry of lower Canada is singular and picturesque, it consists 
generally of a grey capote or long coat with a hood, a variagated 
sash around the waist, a red woollen cap on the head, and long 
boots, reaching to the thighs, or moccassins. This with very tri- 
fling variation is worn throughout the year. It has been remarked 
that Quebec has an Italian summer and a Russian winter. From 
its position it ispreculiarly liable to extremes of cold and heat. In 
summer time the thermometer is often at lOO degrees in the shade, 
while in the winter the mercury has been known to descend to 40 
degrees below Zero. Yet the air is pure, dry, and exhilirating, 
and the climate is exceedingly healthy and only to be dreaded by 
consumptives. 

Adieu to Quebec ! adieu ! to the Citadel of North America 
and the Gibraltar of the Western Co7itinent — to the battle ground 
of Wolfe rich in undying memories ! We are once more borne 
along on the deep waters of the St. Lawrence and sigh as the 
fairy like scene fades on our view. We are passing through 
fleets of vessels which have come laden with the fabricks of 
Europe, to take back the growth of the primeval forests. The 
craft now met with in this part of the river are principally square 
rigged vessels of the largest size, employed in the timber trade. 
From 1200 to 1500 arrive annually at the port of Quebec. Mtev 
passing the mouth of the St. Charles River, a road may be traced 
leading through the pretty village of Beauport, and amidst farms 
and beautiful orchards, to the celebrated falls of Montmorenci. 
At a distance this magnificent cataract appears like a motionless 
streak of snow upon the precipitous bank of the river ; but now 
we are a abreast of it, and behold the mighty torrent projected 
with incredible velocity over the perpendicular rock, 2-50 feet 
into the St. La:\'rence, acquiring a fleecy whiteness as it falls ; 
while the sun producing a brilliant coloured rainbow at its base 
adds a charm to the snow like effulgence of the falling torrent. 
This cataract is decidedly the greatest natural curiosity in the vici- 
nity of Quebec. It is about 100 feet higher than the celebrated 
Niagara Falls, and has been pronounced by many to be more 
picturesque and beautiful. On a hill close to the Falls is a house 
which was formerly the residence of the late DuJce of Kent — it is 



35 

now the residence of Peter Patterson, Esq., proprietor of extensive 
eavv mills in the vicinity. The lovely island of Orleayis 19 miles 
in length, and about 5 in breadth here divides the greai river into 
the North and South Channels, the upper part covered with 
noble forest trees, while cultivated fields and beautiful gardens slope 
down to the water's edge at some points, while others present- 
ing high perpendicular banks. At Ause and Maraud, an enor- 
mous vessel called the Columbus was launched in 1824 — it was 
3700 tons register, and carried 4 masts. The next year, another 
enormous ship, the Baron Renfrew, was launched here, these 
being constructed with the view of taking them out to England, 
and saving the duty on the lumber, of which they are composed. 
This object was however defeated, as it was decided that a voyage 
was first to be made out of England. The Columbus returned to 
this country, and was wrecked on her way out, while the other) 
was lost on the coast of France, on her voyage home. 

The St. Lawrence rolls its immense volume through an ex- 
tended channel of full twenty miles in width, and the shores on 
the north bank gradually increase in elevation, and covered with 
the forest, present a wild and rugged appearance. We are now in 
sight of Mount Ton and Cajpe Tourment, bold promontories, ris- 
ing to the height of 2000 feet. Grosse Island, 30 miles below 
Quebec, is a quarantine station. All vessels from sea stop here as 
they pass up. It is provided with a Hospital, and a Catholic 
church. Crane Isle, a fertile spot, is passed — and Goose Island, 
owned by the nuns, and cultivated as a farm by tenants. And. 
now the Pillars, a group of rocky isles, on one of which a light 
house is erected ; and a floating light marks the intricate and 
dangerous channel of the Traverse. The scenery increases in 
interest ; the vast river, looking like the opening to the ocean ; 
the loity shores, studded with cheerful residences, while hill 
above hill and mountain above mountain rises up in the dis- 
tance. Near St. PaiiVs Bay, 65 miles from Quebec is the Isle 
Aux Coudres, {Tsle of Filberts,) which received its name from 
Jaques Cartier, on account of the profusion of these delicious 
nuts which he observed on landing. The bold round peak we 
see is called Goose Cape, and now we come to the well culti- 
vated settlement of Mai Bay, or Murray Bay, at the mouth of the 
Mai Bay river. It is inhabited chiefly by the descendants of the 
highlanders, engaged in Wolfe's campaign, who settled here 



36 

and intermarried with the Canadians. The water here being 
perfectly salt, many families from (Quebec visit Mai Bay for the 
purposes of sea bathing. 

Continuous ranges of hills and mountain scenery can now be 
seen in every direction. The grand and lofty mountain peaks 
of Cape Eagle and Cape Salmon, here come into view, and 
including the noble river, whitened with hundreds of ships, 
its variegated islands, the numerous shoals of white porpoi- 
se, which frequent these waters, together with scores of 
seals showing their heads above the water in all directions, 
with now and then a whale scattering the smaller fry as he ap- 
proaches : altogether form the varied and startling, as well as 
the most sublime and beautiful scene imaginable — such as can- 
not be met with in any other part of America, and probably not 
on the globe. 

The Mississippi is but a low, sluggish creek, compared to the 
noble and majestic St. Lawrence. The Missouri and Ohio are 
but tiny streams compared with some of the tributaries of the 
St. Lawrence. The Hudson is but a drop in the bucket, a 
rill, winding its way through a small farm or meadow, compared 
with that immense flood and almost boundless ocean of fresh 
water poured into the Atlantic through the Gulf of the St. Law- 
rence. 

We are now 140 miles below Q,uebec, and steering our course 
for the gap in the stupendous cliffs on the north shore. This is 
the mouth of the 

SAGUENAY, 

And, although a mile wide, it appears narrow when compared 
with the mighty St. Lawrence, which at this point is considera- 
bly more than 25 miles in width. Yet the Saguenay is one of 
the most important tributaries of the great river ; its volume of 
water is immense, and the depth and force of its current is so 
sensibly felt at its confluence with the St. Lawrence, that for a 
distance of several miles, vessels are obliged to yield to its influ- 
ence. It is decidedly the largest river east of the Alleghany 
Mountains, the St. Lawrence excepted. From the inky blackness 
of its waters, and the strange, wild, and romantic character of the 
scenery along its banks, it may be considered unquestionably the 
most remarkable river on this continent. "Whilst we are approach- 
ing the lofty portals of this mysterious stream, a brief description 
of the region from whence it derives its source, will better enable 
the reader to form a proper estimate of this great wonder of nature. 



37 

In an immense valley, forming part of the territory belonging 
to the Hudsoji's Bay ComjJaii]/, and about 42 leagues north from 
the St. Lawrence, is the beautiful Lake of iSt. John. Its form 
is nearly circular ; its diameter, about 30 miles, and it serves as 
a great natural reservoir, into which 12 rivers and many smal- 
ler streams discharge their waters. The Saguenay is the only 
outlet by which this vast collection of w^ater finds its way to the 
St. Lawrence. Its scenery is of the wildest and most startling 
description through its whole length, which is about 130 miles 
from Lake St. John to Tadousac Bay. The first half of its 
course lies through a wilderness of hills covered with the pine, 
the fir, and the spruce, and numerous and formidable rapids 
render the navigation hazardous except to experienced canoe- 
men. But below Chicoutimi, which is 6S miles from its mouth, 
it is navigable for the largest vessels. From Ha ! Ha ! Bay, 
downwards, the passage of its waters is through solid moun- 
tains of sienite granite, which seem to have been split asunder 
by the upheavings of an earthquake, thus forming an immense 
canal with banks of perpendicular rocks, towering up to 1500 
or 2000 feet above the water, which is about 150 fathoms deep 
nearly the whole distance. Its depth at different points has never 
been ascertained ; it has been plumbed with aline of 330 fathoms, 
or 19S0 feet, and that too immediately at the base of the 
clitf, and no bottom could be found. The power of language is 
inadequate to describe this great specimen of nature's handi- 
work, nor is it possible to convey to the reader any conception 
of if, by adducing any other river scenery as a simile— for no- 
thing like it can be found in North America. 

" 1 can't describe it though so much it strike, 
Nor liken it — I never saw the like." 

Mr. Charles Lanman, a talented writer and artist, who lately 
made a tour through lower Canada, thus speaks of the Sague- 
nay " Imagine for a moment, an extensive country of rocky, 

and thmly clad mountains suddenly separated by some convul- 
sion of nature, so as to form an almost bottomless chasm, vary- 
ing from one to two miles in width ; and then imagine this 
chasm suddenly half filled with water, and that the moss of cen- 
turies has softened the rugged walls on either side, and you will 
have a pretty accurate idea of the Saguenay." " And ge- 
nerally speaking, these towering bulwarks are not content to 
loom perpendicularly into the air ; but they must needs bend 



38 

over, as if to look at their own savage features reflected in the 
deep. Ay ; and that word deep but tells the simple truth ; for 
the flood that rolls beneath is black and cold as the bottomless, 

pitt. Awful, beyond expression, 1 can assure you, is the 

sensation which one experiences in sailing along the Saguenay, 
to raise his eye heavenward, and behold hanging directly over 
his head, a mass of granite, apparently ready to totter and fall, 
and weighing perhaps a million of tons. Terrible and sublime 
beyond the imagery of the most daring poet, are these clifTs ; 
and while they proclaim the omnipotent power of God, they at 
the same time whisper into the ear of man, that he is but as the 
moth which flutters in the noontide air. And yet is it not 
enough to fill the heart of man with holy pride and unbounded 
love, to remember that the soul within him shall have but com- 
menced its existence, when all the mountains of the world shall 
have been consumed as a scroll ?" 

The tourist, whilst ascending the Saguenay, and passing 
along the base of these mountain cliffs, whose rugged summits 
seem to penetrate the blue expanse above, is oppressed by a 
sense of loneliness and desolation. When he raises his eyes to 
the vast height of the broken and mis-shapen masses which 
overhang and threaten momentarily to overwhelm him, the 
story (>f the Titans seems to be realized, and it appears to him 
as if they had succeeded in this wild and primeval portion of 
the globe, in heaping Ossa upon Pelion, and Olympus upon Os- 
sa. Even when the bright sun lights up each rocky pinnacle, 
or fir-crowned height, and tips with brilliancy the snowy foam- 
caps of the waves ; and small light fleecy clouds hang midway 
up the moss-covered precipice, as if they were the guardian spi- 
rits of the place ; and the salmon, shining like molten silver, as 
they leap into the air after their tiny prey ; and the balmy air, 
laden with the perfume of wild flowers, salutes his nostrils ; and 
while the warm atmosphere of summer tints every object with 
couleur de rose — if even at such a time as this, the gigantic and 
everlasting hills produce a sensation of awe — imagine what 
must be the feelings of the solitary voyageur in his bark canoe, 
when overtaken by the storm, as he floats on the bosom of this 
wild river, shut in on both sides by precipitous walls of granite, 
and cutting off all hope of shelter. A sweeping wind rushes 
suddenly through the chasm, accompanied by heavy pattering 
rain ; darkness closing in above like a pall, turns the already 



89 

leaden coloured waters to the hue of ink. Heavens ! what a 
flash of bright lightning darts out from the palpable darkness, 
bringing into sudden view the ghastly and spectral forms of the 
rugged cliffs — and now the thunder peals forth with such a 
deafening crash, that loose boulders and masses of rock come 
leaping and plunging into the startled wave — every rock and, 
cavern, and distant mountain take up and repeat the wild echoes, 
whilst the constant flashes of the vivid lightning reveal the hor- 
ror stricken traveller on his knees in the canoe, his head bowed 
in prayer, and although paralyzed with fear — yet trusting to 
him alone who can put forth his hand to save at that awful mo- 
ment. 

But see ! the clouds are breaking up ; the storm is abating ; 
the roar of the thunder is more subdued, and is dying away in 
the distant range of mountains ; the seals disport themselves in 
the sparkling waves ; the white porpoises in shoals are throw- 
ing up the glittering spray in their uncouth gambols : the sun 
once more tints the landscape with burnished gold ; the air 
purified by the electric current is fresh and elastic, and nature 
reassured seems more beautiful and joyous than ever. 

We hope the kind reader will excuse us for leaving him so 
long at the mouth of the Saguenay, whilst we have been hum- 
bly endeavoring to describe the general features of this singular 
river, under the different aspects of sunshine and gloom. We 
will now resume our office of Pilot and Cicerone, and point out 
the various objects of note as we ascend the river to Chicoutimi. 
To the left is Tadousac Bay, which is one of the Kings posts 
or stations for trading with the Indians. It comprises several 
stores, &.C., a chapel, and one dwelling house. These objects, 
situated on a terrace about 50 feet above the water, including a 
flag staff" and some cannon, and the moantains rising up abruptly 
in the rear, form a very pleasing object in the picture. Here are 
extensive salmon fisheries. Looking ahead, we have a magni- 
ficent view of the river in perspective, in which a round moun- 
tain peak, called Tete du Boide, is a prominent feature. The 
river now inclines to the north for a few miles, but soon turns 
again to the west ; being in many places 3 miles in width, and 
its depth is profound until we arrive at the bar, 60 miles from its 
mouth. Nature, in her wildest freaks, has been evidently fash- 
ionino: the mountains and rocks into the most whimsical and 



40 

fantastical shapes, and objects of the most startUng description 
now follow each other in rapid succession. The Two Profiles, 
are stron^ outlines on the rocks, several hundred feet above the 
water, and strongly resembling the human face. The Si. Louis 
Islands, a rocky group, and the mouth of the Marguerite river, 
are passed. And soon we come into view of two tremendous mass- 
es of rock, called Eternity Point and Cape Trinity, rising 
from the water's edge to the height of nearly 2000 feet — and so 
abruptly, that ships of the largest tonnage may sail so close to their 
base, that the hand may touch them. When the traveller raises 
his eyes to their vast height, and then thinks of the deep abyss 
of waters rolling beneath him, he is overcome with awe, and 
shrinks as he becomes convinced of his own nothingness. Trin- 
ity Cape has 3 peaks on its summit resembling human heads. 
On the right side of the Cape, Trinity Mountain, several hun- 
dred feet above the water, is situated the three profiles ; when 
viewed from the left, they bear a strong resemblance to the hu- 
man face ; and the other huge pile of everlasting granite is well 
designated by the name of Eternity Point. Sheltered between 
these beetlino; and over-hanging- clifls, is a delightful recess of 
the shore, called Trinity Cove, — its retired and lonely beauty, 
presents a striking contrast with the towering grandeur of the rest 
of the scene. Further still we come to Statue Point. Here a rock, 
bearing a striking similarity to the human figure, formerly stood 
in a niche, far above the water. The figure has, however, top- 
pled from its base, and is hid in the bosom of the deep. A little 
beyond this. Tableau Rock shoots up perpendicularly from 
the waters edge, to the height of several hundred feet. We are 
now passing Grand Bay, or Ha-ha-hay, as it is known by the 
habitans. It is supposed that it gained the latter appellation 
from the first voyagers, who, on suddenly beholding what they 
conceived to be a new channel for the river, exclaimed Ha-ha ! 
It forms an excellent harbor, in which the largest ships of war 
might ride with safety, and is destined no doubt to be the prin- 
cipal seat of trade in this northern district. Chicoutimi is the 
next object claiming our attention ; here is a King's Post and 
trading Factory. It is situated at the junction of the Chi- 
coutimi River, and consists of several large buildings used as 
stores. A venerable church, which was built by the Jesuit La- 
brosse in 1727, stands in the centre of a grassy lawn, surround- 



41 

ed by shrubbery. Missionaries come every year, in the months 
of June and July, to minister to the spiritual wants of the isola- 
ted inhabitants ; and by their endeavors, the Indians in the set- 
tlement have, in a great measure, abandoned the use of " Fire 
water ; and have become orderly and decent compared with 
other scattered remnants of their race. But they are all a de- 
graded and a down-trodden people — their bold spirit of indepen- 
dence lias been crushed by the white man, and the lines of Dry- 
ilen can no longer apply to them — 

" As free as nature first made man, 

When wild in woods, the noble savage ran." 

Beyond this point civilization ends ; and the savage wilder- 
ness, and the primeval forest, stretchout to Hudson's Bay, bear- 
ing no signs or traces of life, save the family marked trail of the 
Indian hunter. 

Into this wild region, where constant impediments to our pro- 
gress present themselves, and grievous privations have to be en- 
dured, we will not invite the reader. The curtain, therefore, 
falls. — Our romantic trip is ended. 



TESTIMONIALS. 



Irving House, New York, Nov. 1st., 1849. 
Mr. Wm. Burr — 

Dear Sir, — I have witnessed your Moving Mirror of the 
Lakes, the Niagara, the St. Lawrence, and the Saguenay, now 
on exhibition at the Minerva Rooms, with the greatest pleasure. 
For fifteen years, I have navigated these lakes and rivers, and 
am perfectly familiar with all the objects — the Rapids, Islands, 
and Cities — represented on your painting. I award to your 
beautiful picture the palm of excellence, as a perfectly truthful 
and correct delineation of these sources of navigation. 

Yours truly, 

THOS. MAXWELL. 
Former Commander of the Royal Mail Steamer Gildersleve, 
since of the Steamer Canada. 

Ne^o York, Nov. 7, 1849. 
Having been laboring as a Missionary of the Reformed Dutch 
Church for three years past among the Thousand Islands of 
the River St. Lawrence, and being familiarly acquainted with 
the scenery on that grand and majestic stream, it is with plea- 
sure I certify to the accuracy of Mr. Burr's Mirror, now exhibit- 
ing at 406 Broadway, New York City. The representation of 
Brockville by moonlight is surpassingly beautiful, while the ra- 
pids, fishing vessels, rafts, with some of the inhabited islands 
and a floating population in their unique costume, is true and 
exceedingly picturesque. 

REV. JEROME A. DAVENPORT. 



44 

NeiD York, Nov. 19th, 1849. 
Mr. William Burr — 

Dear Sir, — Having visited your " Mirror of the Lakes" I 
with pleasure testify to its accuracy. I have resided in the Sa- 
guenay country many years, (being in the fur-trading business 
previous to its occupancy by the Hudson Bay Company,) and 
next to beholding its sublime scenery, is a visit to the transfer 
on your canvas. I am also acquainted with the St. Lawrence, 
and in fact, all the objects which illustrate and enliven your 
" Mirror ;" and the superb scenery — unparelleled in the world — 
which is so faithfully delineated by you, should cause your 
" Mirror of the Lakes " to be visited by all. As far as I am ac- 
quainted, nothing could exceed your correct description or con- 
vey a more accurate impression of this vast and little known 
region. I am, sir. 

Your ob't servant, 

MOULTON BULLOCK. 

Johnson-street, Brooklyn. 



OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 



From the New York Albion. 

BURR'S MIRROR OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. 

Panoramas have been, almost without exception, caiicatures as 
portraits of places, and beneath contempt as works of art. This 
one we strongly incline to believe exceedingly correct, and we 
know it to be eminently beautiful in an artistic point of view. It 
would be superfluous to write an article about the geographical 
position of the St. Lawrence, that great outlet of the Great Wes- 
tern Lakes, the varied interest attaching to the localities it waters 
in its course, and the celebrity of its principal points. These are 
well known to most of our readers, and might be to all, without 
any attempt of ours to play the school-master. We have only to 
do with the picture, which is, as a whole, altogether unrivalled — 
an assertion that we make without any fear of contradiction. 

For the convenience of unrolling and managing the square acres 
of canvas employed, the exhibition is divided by the fall of a cur- 
tain into half a dozen parts, giving the spectator about two minutes 
breathing time between each. It is otherwise continuous, the eye, 
by a kind of pictorial license, gliding from one interesting point to 
another, and jumping over the intermediate space. Without this, 
an excursion from Buffalo to the Saguenay River, would be un feu 
tropfort. We have varying effects of weather, season, and time of 
day ; sunlight and moonUght, storms and calms, summer and win- 
ter. So we have the varieties of vessels peculiar to the waters we 
pass through, from the balks of timber rafted down stream to be 
converted into shipping, up to the ships themselves. The raftp, 
canoes, boats, and steamers, are admirably done ; the ships being 
passable. The still waters throughout are charmingly rendered, 
and in many places, the troubled stream is no less faithfully repre- 
sented. The utmost care has been taken to give the exact tints of 
the water, where they are considered characteristic of the locality ; 
the same minute attention being paid also to the local land tints, 
whereby the labor of the whole has been greatly increased and its 
faithfulness proportionably augmented. In the rough sketches that 
we saw last year, we remember noticing particularly all the re- 
quisite memoranda, made by the artists on the spot and at the mo- 
ment. Neither must we forget to give them great credit for the 
carefulness and skill they have shown in their perspective ; m some 
of the town-views this is really remarkable. 

The plunge of the Horse Shoe Fall, at Niagara, is boldly given, 



46 

and effective ; and the same may be said of the Suspension Bridge. 
On emerging from the Niagai"a River, the pretty little village of 
that name pleased us much, as a bit of good, quiet, unpretending 
Art — nothing in the subject, but everything in the treatment. Pass- 
ing Hamilton, we must especially commend the bit of landscape 
painting shown in the highlands to the right of Sir A. McNab's ba- 
ronial residence, which is represented in the back-ground. The 
view of Toronto is excellent, and really valuable, inasmuch as it 
shows the City from the Lake, previously to the last disastrous 
fire. Port Hope Light-house in a storm, is cleverly done, as are 
some pretty island groups between that place and Kingston. Kings- 
ton itself is also very nicely painted, and the Thousand Isles are 
handled with a picturesque boldness and spirit worthy of their ro- 
mantic celebrity. Brockville, by moonlight, is charming ; and Og- 
densburgh, seen in perspective, is one of the neatest views of the 
kind in the whole exhibition. The various rapids between Pres- 
cott and Montreal, are treated with consummate skill ; that of La- 
chine, with the wreck of the Steamer Dawn, being a perfect mas- 
terpiece of effect. The approach to Montreal, and that portion of 
the city containing Bonsecours Market, with Mount Royal in the 
background, deserve special commendation. The race of the 
Steamers Montreal, Lady Elgin, Quebec, and John Munn, here- 
abouts, is also very spirited. There is great boldness as well as 
skill exhibited in the evening tints and brilliant sky under which 
we pass Three Rivers, near which place, if we remember rightly, 
an enormous raft is a curious feature in the scene. But we must 
hurry on to Quebec, seen by rise of sun, with its Citadel in strong 
rays of light, and a deep shade resting on the lower town — all very 
artistic, and not inferior to any other portion. The Falls of Mont- 
morency are capitally painted, especially the glen on the left of 
them, and thrown back. The high mountain of St. Ann and St. 
Paul's Bay, should also be commended. 

Thus hastily descending, we are at the mouth of the Saguenay 
River, to which the last roller is exclusively devoted ; pity is it that 
we have almost exhausted our vocabulary of praise, for on the ho- 
nor of an impartial critic, this Saguenay is worth all the rest j)ut 
together. The rocky scenery of the lofty mountains, that are cut 
through by this magnificent stream, are given with an air of truth 
and vigor that really astonished us ; and we believe much the same 
feeling was conveyed to the minds of those present with us. 

But we must not allow ourselves to hammer out this eulogium to 
any greater length. Exactly a year ago, in noticing some sketches 
for this work, we obsen'ed, " Mr. Banvard has given a striking 
proof of American enterprise ; we trust Mr. Burr will do as much 
for American taste and skill." He has done so signally, and wo 
trust he will be rewarded. Whatever success he may meet in New 
York, we can ensure him a good reception in London, if he go 
there. 

We were at the Minerva Rooms last evening to see Burr's 
Moving Mirror, embracing the most life-like views of the Niagara 



47 

River, its Islands, the Falls, Whirlpool, Suspension Bridge, Lake 
Ontario, the Thousand Islands, the St. Lawi-ence, Montreal, Quebec, 
the picturesque Falls of Montmorency, closing with the most beau- 
tiful and amazingly sublime scenery, of the mighty and mysterious 
Saguenay. Having travelled some years since over nearly the en- 
tire route, we were curious to see how far memory had proved true 
to by-gone days, and we are compelled to admit, that we more than 
once forgot our identity, in the marvellous and faithful transcript, 
which past like magic before our bewildered gaze. The artistic 
merit of this noble triumph of American skill, is undoubtedly su- 
perior to any other painting of the kind in this country. It being 
an opaque picture, it is admirably adapted to the taste of the people. 
We recognised many striking scenes, with the utmost distinctness. 
We stood some ten year's ago on the summit of Brock's Monu- 
ment, on a cold, bleak day, and gazed over the battle-field and snow 
covered hills, that lost their outline in the distant clouds, and distant 
waters — we stood again last night, in fancy, on the same spot, with 
emotions strangely youthful. The whole scene is enlivened by 
beautiful music, executed by the celebrated Professor Van Der 
Weyde, on one of T. Gilbert & Go's. iEolian pianos, which seems 
peculiarly adapted to awaken the soul, to the enjoyment of the 
sublime and beautiful. The stupendous peaks of the Saguenay, 
are a fitting idenda to the picture, and elicit the most profound ad- 
miration from all who have witnessed them ; indeed, they surpass 
all we ever dreamed of, in the way of the sublime and the grand. 
More geography of the frontier, may be learned at the Minerva 
Rooms in a couple of hours, than could be obtained elsewhere in 
the same number of months. — N. Y. Sun. 

The Saguenay. — We paid a visit yesterday to Burr's Mirror, and 
wei'e agreeably surprised at its accuracy in detail, and its fine ef- 
fect as a whole. The picture of the wonderful Saguenay — the 
most astonishing river on the globe — stealing along the eternal soli- 
tude of its fathomless gulf, between banks that tower far above the 
clouds — is worth a hundred times the price of admission. 

The proprietor selected objects of curiosity and scenes of the 
most thrilling interest, innumerable modes of artistic combination, 
vales on vales of Emerald, and mountains on mountains of Ame- 
thyst, streams on streams of Silver, are not huddled confusedly 
together, but stretched out into a comprehensive and grand picture. 
The Saguenay rolls along like a dream through her hushed bed to 
the gulf. The observer will see that all these lakes and rivers form 
a perfect chain of water communication. The " Thousand Islands " 
force us into the belief that the Book of Nature has but one page, 
and that is beauty, wafted to us from some enchanted land of love- 
liness and light. The great segment of the circle of the world is 
seen in this picture. Yesterday afternoon crowds were seen leaving 
the door, as all the seats were secured at an early hour. Persons 
would do well to procure tickets in advance.^ Tribune. 

" Burr's Moving Mirror of the Great Lakes, Niagara, St 



48 

Lawrence, and Saguenay Rivers." — We took occasion a few eve- 
nings since to visit this Moving Mirror, now on exhibition at the 
Minerva Rooms, 406 Broadway, and were amply repaid for our 
trouble. 

Having passed over nearly the whole of the route described, 
some four years since, we were prepared to discover what justice 
the ai lists had done to their subject, and what, if any errors they 
had committed to canvas. And (after an evening's inspection,) we 
cheerfully accord our testimony to its fidelity, for the color of the 
waters, the face of the country, the tints of the flowers, the hues 
of the foliage and shrubbery, the exact condition of the public 
buildings and private residences, are all so true to nature that we 
almost imagined that we wei'e taking our tour over again. 

Nobly have the artists acquitted themselves in bringing out a 
work of so much merit, and one that will, we think, be appreciated 
by a discerning public. 

We say to one and all of our readers, that Mr, Burr, the proprie- 
tor, richly merits your patronage, and those of you who have not as 
yet 8een this great work of art, should by all means take the earliest 
opportunity of visiting the Minerva Rooms. — Merclianf s Ledger. 

Burr's Moving Mirror. — In these days of Panorama ma- 
nia, of course there are daubs exhibited, dignified with the title of 
" jjanorama," which are but frauds upon the public, and are calcu- 
lated to affect seriously the interests of those whose exhibitions are 
really meritorious. As it is the duty of the press to expose these 
impositions, so it is their duty to direct public attention to exhibi- 
tions which are deserving of patronage ; and we now refer particu- 
cularly, to what is termed " Burros Moving Mirror,"^nd pro 
nounce it, in all I'espects, highly deserving patronage, and we trust 
that no one will fail to visit it, because it will not only afford con- 
siderable gratification, from the views represented, but viewing it 
as a work of art, that feeling cannot fail to be enhanced. The trip 
from Buffalo to the Saguenay river, exhibits views of Niagara, the 
Horse Shoe and American Fall, the Suspension Bridge ; and emerg- 
ing from the Niagara river, you pass Hamilton, obtain a fine sight of 
Toronto ; of Port Hope Light-house in a storm — and the group of is- 
lands be tween it and Kingston. You then pass in succession, Kings- 
ton, Brockville, (a beautiful moonlight view) Ogdensburgh — the va- 
rious rapids between Prescott and Montreal, of which city, the paint- 
ing is peculiarly spirited, and the three rivers. You then pass to Que- 
bec, is seen at sunrise ; the Falls of Montmorency, thence descend to 
the Saguenay river; the representation of which forms one part of 
the exhibition, and in all respects is one of the grandest in point of 
scenery we have ever witnessed, and is delineated in a masterly 
style. But it is quite impossible by any description to afford an idea 
of the atti-actions of the exhibition, and we can only inform those 
who fail to visit this panorama, that they lose a very great 
treat. — Evenim Mirror. 



T^ — " 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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